Alpine mk V 1967 White/Black
GT converted to sports
Overdrive
Solid body and underside
Resprayed 3-4 yrs ago (est) paintwork generally good car looks v pretty.
Good hood and chrome
Good seats, carpet and door cards.
Feels solid to drive no rattles or sqeaks slight whine from transmission new steering box, and some suspension bits, engine needs a tune + running a bit rich (maybe v clogged airfilters)
Water temp steady, oil pressure good, pulls ok, clutch smooth.
Good mechanicals and electrics (tacho a bit wild but once I've set up the ignition it should be OK) otherwise all working ok.
Some gauges seem to have been replaced (should the temp gauge be in centigrade?)

Bad bits
O/S wing mirror removed wing patched and filled but filler sunk so you can see where it was. (no N/S mirror or repair doesn't show)
Some cracking of the paintwork around some of the joints (rear sill joints both sides) sills are solid but have a skim of filler (wallace and gromit fridge magnet doesn't cling on too well) the sill "curve" is stll there.
Some very minor bubbling of the paintwork (looks more like a paint reaction rather than corrosion)
Door fit not bad but acceptable.
Window winders seem to struggle and do not lift windows completely (maybe new mechanism's required)
Veneer delaminating on walnut dash (repair or replace?)
Stainless steel exhaust needs realignement.
Minilite wheels (I prefer steel)
Fuel gauge reads 1/2 full when tank full??

All this for £5400 does this seem like value? My trusted mechanic says car is OK.

From your description, and of course not knowing the car or having seen it I'm feeling just on the 'yes' side of 'maybe'. At £1k less it would be 'yes'.
The temp gauge is Celsius (50-85-120).
The doors and windows have 12 different adjustments. Setting them up can easily occupy a whole day - each! Not surprising if they haven't been done perfectly.
And the next day (certainly the morning) figuring out where the exhaust touches and correcting it.
If they are genuine Miniltes, you can make a good profit changing to steels. Bear this in mind when haggling.
Sill is a bit worrying. There is an 'ultimate' test you can do. Jack up the car under the front eyes of the rear springs. Then waggle the rear bumper. If the door gap has opened up more than about 4mm, and/or you can waggle it more than about 3mm, it could be weak.
You didn't mention the OD. OK?
The dash (assuming original SV GT) is real wood veneer on bakelite! Best to take it out, re-glue any lifted bits, then re-varnish. You need to be:
a) logical, noting what goes where, especially wires
b) agile to get your head under the dash
c) good at seeing close-up. This is the one I fail on nowadays.
Tank sender is in top of LH tank. Can be removed - I think - without removing tank. When out, you can reconnect and observe gauge readings against sender position. Or try another gauge first.

Over to you.

Thanks

My main worry is the sills I will jack and waggle as recomended!!
The other bits I will can to as and when. I think a major service is in order.

How can I change to inertia reel seat belts?
I have not come across these "hook and loop" fixings before.

O/D is fine. (Took me a while to find it wasn't expecting a stalk doughhhh)

Chard "I enjoy learning about a new car" F

You need a pair of Securon 264 belts - they are sold as rear belts but fear not. You have to cut off the top pillar loop (2 minutes hacksaw - you don't touch the belt etc) and then they fit fine.
254 will do, but if you or passengers are vertically challenged, there may not be enough belt.
Link the buckles with a black shoe-lace laid behind the glove box hinge to stop them falling under the seat.

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I got mine off eBay

Chris

Sorry being a bit thick. I have a loop welded to the transmission tunnel. How do I secure the belt to this. I'm not sure cutting it is a good idea.

The orginal belt has a "hook" thingy that closes once round the loop a bit like a rock climbers harness (I suspect not as strong).

chard "confused" F

The loop is (or should be) screwed into the usual seta belt size anchor nut under the floor. There are three nuts for each belt. One each side of the seat floor rear corners and one into the inner wheel arch.

chris

Thanks, I will poke around under the carpets.

Chard "still excited" F

chris

Another subject (sorry) what do I set the points and timing to?

Chard "must get a workshop manual" F

You can see the manual here:

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Reprints and CDs are available and original WSM 145 copies appear on ebay often.

Static timing is 6-8 BTDC; points are 0.015"
Strobe timing - 34 BTDC at 3000rpm

I have jacked and waggled to my hearts content.
The drivers side gap opens 3-4mm and the passenger side 2-3mm. Waggling has no effect (seems pretty solid) both doors open and close easily as they should jacked and on the ground.


Hmmmmmmmmm decision time!!

A suggestion:
how many owners and how long have they kept it? Frequent changes and short ownership tend to be not good.

its a 6 owner car according to V5 but the car comes with the original log book showing a few more owners in the sixties prior to DVLA keeping proper records. last owner had it 3 years. And had an insurance valuation of £8000 in 2006 provided by the North Yorkshire Motor Museum (they make reference to the resto) judging from old MOT's it has covered 6000 miles since then.

From 1986-2003 1 owners
from 2003-2006 3 owners

I have taken the car down to the body shop I use (he looks after plenty of classics and prestige stuff) he has declared the car solid and the paintwork at least 3 years old. (I'm always concerned when paint is too fresh)

The current keeper (a friend and bit eccentric) purchased the car from auction a month ago with me in mind. After I happened to mention I fancied one!! He is letting me have the car for the price he paid.
The car has been lent to me on the basis that if I don't like it to let him have it back for his (extensive) collection. You don't often get opportunity like this to evaluate a classic car like this prior to purchase.

I've taken it out for 60 miles today, it drives very well, a bit of an uneven tickover and harsh when revved hard so I think a good service is in order. (new plugs, points, condensor, coil, oil filter, distributor cap are in a box on the back seat because my friends "mechanic" was going to give it the once over before I inspected it but due to a holiday unable to do the job)

On balance I think I will take the car. I reckon it's the top price for the condition. But I could do worse and I've started to bond with it.

Chard "some strange but good friends" F

P.S. Another pal (a carpenter) is going to re veneer the dash

Well good luck then. I trust we will meet when you bring it to the SAOC National Meeting at Warwick School in two weeks' time.......

As well as the items you mentioned, it's worth checking the carb balance and mixture etc. AND that the inlet manifold is well clamped to the head. It's only held on by three bolts (well, one and two halves actually), all in line, and if not tight, it can vibrate at high revs, which feels harsh.

Thanks Chris

I will try to get to the Warwick do on Saturday 1st, however I'm entertaining an elderly relative that weekend so may not be for long and won't be in the Alpine (3 won't fit)

Can we just show up? I havn't joined SAOC yet.

Chard "trying to keep everyone happy" F

What do you mean, three won't fit?
We manage four adults occasionally (even with the roof on), and my wife and I plus two daughters used to come to meetings with two tents etc.

You can show up, I think, but why not join the SAOC now?