Perhaps this post should be on the carburettor thread, so apologies to Eddie about that.

My series 3 1600 Alpine broke down on the way back from the National and, as per my post on the "Electronic Ignition" thread, I am therefore thinking about ways to eliminate future potential trouble spots.

I don't yet know if the problem was with the ignition (although it's more common) or the carburettor, but the garage who tuned up the car before I left home, said the existing Weber 36/36 DCD wouldn't give a proper reading on the tuning equipment and is likely well worn. As it's not intended for an Alpine, I don't know what jet sizes it has either, so the carb could really be completely unsuitable for the car.

Therefore I would appreciate any views on whether to:

1. Rebuild the existing Weber, and rejet it to suit if necessary.
2. Abandon the existing Weber and try one of the new Webers with ram air plenum as recommended by Eddie.
3. Rebuild and fit a set of series V Strombergs and manifold that I have spare.
4. Try and find a set of decent Zenith 36s with manifold, which the car would have had when new.

At the moment, I incline towards the Strombergs on cost grounds, as the full benefit of the new Weber is only obtained with the plenum, which bumps up the cost significantly. It also just seems more appropriate somehow, to see a pair of old school "period" 60s carbs under the bonnet.

If I went for the Stromberg option, I have discovered that Canley Classics sells CD 150 rebuild kits intended for Triumphs at a reasonable price. Does anyone know if these kits are also suitable for Alpines?

Final question - My old Series IV 1600 had been fitted with series V Strombergs and it seemed to run reasonably well with them. However, I was never sure whether the springs and needle should be changed to suit the smaller engine size. I had a feeling that I saw something about this in an early Horn, although I could never find the article again. Does anyone have an answer to this question please?

Many thanks

Steve

The Triumph needles and springs (if they are part of the kit) will be different and there are two slightly different float chambers - some gaskets fit either. The O rings and diaphragms should be the same.
Note that Alpine carbs had the original rotating choke bar - not the later enriching disc. The kits should be for pre-1969 carbs
Or get SV kits from John Hayter.
I can't answer your question about tuning for the 1600 - and I don't recall seeing the information anywhere. I bet the SV set-up isn't too far out though. There is a Haynes manual for the Stromberg which lists all the applications, needles, jets etc. If you know the shape of needle you want, it will suggest a part number.
Why not just check over the carbs you have and see what you need? The key items are the needle valves and the needles/jets. If you remove the butterfly screws make sure you peen or Loctite them back in.

Hi Viper,

If you choose to go down the re-build your CD150 carbs 'for that 60's look' you could contact Andrew and Carol Turner.

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01572 767665
7 North Witham Road
South Witham
Lincolnshire
NG33 5PN

I know they specialise in SU's but I recently bought complete service kits from them for my CD150's plus the 5M needles as specified in Chris McGovern's book Alpine the classic Sunbeam. They were very helpfull, had all the bits I needed, postage was next day and the prices were very competative.

Paul

I decided to overhaul and fit the spare Strombergs, since I already have them and the manifold, making this the cheapest option for now. I got two Alpine 1725 repair kits from Southern Carburettors in Wimbledon, as they didn't have any information on alternative needles and jets to fit a 1600, and didn't think it would make much difference. So that's (yet another) Alpine job for the winter.

However, what I don't have (because it's a series 3) is the connection to the oil filler neck, the flame trap or the "F" shaped rubber tube that connects it to the holes in the middle of the air filters. Are these an essential part of the system? Do I need to get these extra bits, or can I just block up the centre holes in the filters? If I do is that likely to significantly affect the running of the carburettors? Thanks.

Steve

As long as your valve chest cover has the breather pipe spewing fumes down towards the road, block up the filter holes and drive on.