Hi to all.
I belive that the complete windshield assembly must be removed to change windshield glass and rubber sealing strip below the windshield assembly. Is this correct and how difficult is it to remove the assembly. Can it be done without taking apart the dashboard and the wiring bundle underneath.
Thanks,
Tom.

Hi, I had mine out last year, there were 5 nuts to remove, 2at each end ,2 about a foot in from each end, and 1 in the middle. due to the restricted access on turning the nuts ,I found cutting a 7/16" spanner in 1/2 made the job easyer. also removing the drivers seat is a good idea unless you're a contortionist!

I'm sure mine had 7 studs/nuts. 2 1/2 inch nuts at either side of the screen, set back about 3 and 6 inches from the quarter light, accessed via two holes.
1 7/16 dead center of the screen and 1 about a foot either side of the center one

The answers above are OK for all Series but the SI-II screen is different to later cars - and is made of brass. It's much simpler than the later design which is mild steel pressings covered with stainless trims. The problem with the later screen frame is that it corrodes, usually in the lower frame between 2 and 6 inches from the corners. Be prepared to have to get it repaired. The top and bottom trims fall out, but only after the side trims have been removed - with pop-rivets which have to be drilled out. You re-fit the screen to the frame in the usual way with cord or plastic-covered wire to pull it in.
The trims are a struggle to re-fit! Soap is good.
I almost forgot one vital point. Before you start, get a steel rule and measure from the top edge of the centre of the frame to the front edge of the boot lid. Then when you put it back, you can get the same dimension and the hood/hardtop will fit. Some cars (maybe all?) have rubber wedges at the side to set the rake angle.

Many thanks to all for your help on the above subject. I will have a shot at this problem next week and let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Tom.
Ireland.

As Chris Barker states the removal requres gaining access to and removing 7 nuts and washers. Four are at the bottom of the A-pillar, two left, two right. One is located at the dead center of the windshield frame and can be awkward due to the position of the heater blower unit, the wiring loom may also cause some obstruction but with care can be got around without damage, removal or disconnection. Two further nuts and washers are half way between the center position and the ends of the A-pillar. The nuts were badly corroded and I would recommend Snap-On Flank Drive sockets for removal as they will round out with standard sockets. As Chris has said this is a high corrosion area and the frame can be delicate so take care on removal in case the windshield slips from the frame when it is lifted clear. I did not come across any rubber wedges used to position the windshield rake angle however I did take three measurements from the extreme left and right edges of the frame and one from the exact center of the frame to a marked point at the center of the boot lid edge. This removal pertains to series V cars. Again many thanks to all who replied to my question and I hope that my description will help anyone else in the job. Regards, Tom.

Last year I lost a windscreen at 70mph on M6, very dodgy!! It was Sunday lunchtime and we were on our way to France from Cheshire. The insurance co could not find a screen in time, so drove car back home without screen not amusing!! When we returned home, windscreen company came to replace it on my drive. I have done 3 or 4 windscreen fittings- frame on bench, lots of swearing. These 2 chaps fitted it on the car in 25 minutes. I was so impressed I did not give them a tip!!
They removed the top stainless trim, drilled out the upper pop rivets on the side pieces leaving the lower ones, and fitted the screen with a bit of effort. They had obviously done it before